Founded in 1887, Filson designer Francesco Baschirotto is looking to a frontier lifestyle of mountaineering, mining and fur trapping this season. The collection features hiking boots developed with artisans in Monte Belluna and waxed cotton jackets that wouldn’t look out of place on De Niro in The Deer Hunter. The primary colour palette was chosen to reference 1970s outdoors wear and Filson’s hardy designs are finding solid markets in the urban jungles of East Asia.
Founded in 1967 by designer Salvatore Piccolo’s mother, Maria, this family-run tailor still employs mother, son, sisters and cousins. Handmade to spec in Naples, Piccolo shirts are fitted with bespoke collars and cuffs and use the finest materials from Swiss pique to Japanese chambray, heavily washed to ensure that the fit holds. The formal collection has a humorous twist this season, tapping into the workwear trend by combining checked shirts with tweed and wool blazers.
Sartoria Partenopea created an autumnal range that showcased the best in Neapolitan tailoring. Working with a 100-strong classically trained team, the line was updated through a shorter fit, narrower lapel and raised box silhouette. Using dyed velvet and Prince of Wales printed cashmere, this is a texture-heavy look in green, blues and browns. One of the key pieces was a blazer made from cashmere scarf material – a very loose knit supported by a cotton block and taking up to 25 hours to complete.
Designer Alexa Hentsch has built a loyal following over the past four years with her simple, playful menswear. Showing at Pitti for the first time, Hentsch has worked with British Millerain (the supplier to the British armed forces) on the new collection while tapping into her Brazilian heritage by producing in Portugal, making this collection British quality with a Latin twist.
Designer Koji Norihide was inspired by the practical elegance of the 1920s and 1930s country house. Ranging from formal outdoor attire to shooting tweeds or outfits with a nautical nod, the new collection hangs together through a sense of humour and density of textures and colours. Tweed jackets with fine linen lining and original period pocket-emblems sit alongside cotton canvas capes lined with jersey faux-fur.