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Landing at Luanda’s Quatro de Fevereiro International airport is rarely a pleasant experience. The immigration queues are long and slow, the boothed officers gruff, and it always seems to take an age for your luggage to creak its way into the sweaty and overcrowded arrivals hall.

Several security checks later, you are finally allowed outside into the humidity. Here the honking traffic jams await you, ready to sap your energy and leave you ill-prepared for the surly receptionist at your overpriced hotel, where the internet is slow and the air-con…



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