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At the height of Iraq’s civil war, it took a strong constitution to brave the arrival into Baghdad International Airport. Once past the heart-plunging corkscrew landing, the better to evade surface-to-air missiles, you had to contend with the 11km highway into Baghdad. The route had earned its moniker after countless roadside bomb explosions and daylight shootouts between religious militias as “the most dangerous road in the world”. Private security companies charged $5,000 for a one-way ride. When he was fortunate enough to get a passenger,…



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